At one time the mere mention of
the country Lebanon would conjure up images of sun-drenched beaches,
snow-capped mountains and a cultured, hospitable population bearing a
vibrant, healthy cuisine. With its world class museums, universities and
exciting nightlife, Beirut was often referred to as "the Paris of
the Middle East." Unfortunately, because of the civil war
(1975-1991) most only remember the violence and destruction that came
close to annihilating this beautiful little country. Today however,
tourism is up and rebuilding is being done at an astonishing rate;
Lebanon is currently one of the largest construction sites in the world.
This isn't the first time that Beirut has been rebuilt, as early as the
6th century the city was destroyed by devastating earthquakes and later
a tidal wave and citywide fire. After each destruction the city was
rebuilt to recapture its original splendor, this time is no exception.
The similarities between most
Middle Eastern cuisines cannot be denied. With the language of the
countries surrounding the eastern and southern Mediterranean being
predominantly Arabic, many of the dishes carry the same names from
region to region, though they may be prepared or seasoned somewhat
differently. Because of this, the cuisines of the Middle East are often
sadly lumped into one homogenous category, when in truth they can vary
greatly. To view the cuisines of the Middle East as one is like
proclaiming that all cuisines of Western Europe are alike. Lebanese
food, for example, combines the sophistication and subtleties of
European cuisines with the exotic ingredients of the Middle and Far
East.
The cuisine of Lebanon is the
epitome of the Mediterranean diet. It includes an abundance of starches,
fruits, vegetables, fresh fish and seafood; animal fats are consumed
sparingly. Poultry is eaten more often than red meat, and when red meat
is eaten it is usually lamb. It also includes copious amounts of garlic
and olive oil-nary a meal goes by in Lebanon that does not include these
two ingredients. Most often foods are either grilled, baked or sautéed
in olive oil; butter or cream is rarely used other than in a few
desserts. Vegetables are often eaten raw or pickled as well as cooked.
While the cuisine of Lebanon doesn't boast an entire repertoire of
sauces, it focuses on herbs, spices and the freshness of ingredients;
the assortment of dishes and combinations are almost limitless. The
meals are full of robust, earthy flavors and, like most Mediterranean
countries, much of what the Lebanese eat is dictated by the seasons.
With the recent emphasis on the
health benefits of Mediterranean cuisine, many Americans are discovering
and embracing authentic Lebanese food. The awareness of this ancient
cuisine has also inspired professional chefs and restaurateurs across
the country to feature exciting Lebanese items on their menus.
Situated between the east and the
west, Lebanon is a culinary and cultural crossroads. Lebanon is located
on the eastern most shore of the Mediterranean in the Fertile Crescent,
where western civilization is said to have begun. The cuisine of this
ancient land is diverse and steeped in history; both the eastern and
western influences in its cookery are apparent. Though its mainstream
popularity is relatively new, the cuisine is not; the cuisine of Lebanon
has been in the making since pre-biblical times. The influence that
Lebanon has had on the world is totally out of proportion to its size;
culinary contributions from this tiny country have had the greatest
impact on modern Middle Eastern cuisine. Roughly encompassing an area of
land the size of Connecticut, the people and cuisine of Lebanon are
known throughout the world-Lebanese cuisine is a true reflection of its
welcoming culture.
The national dish of Lebanon is
kibbeh, an emulsified paste of the freshest lamb and bulgur wheat. Think
of kibbeh as a sort of Lebanese paté. Originally, kibbeh was made by
pounding lamb with a jorn (mortar) and modaqqa (pestle), then kneading
in spices and soaked bulgur. To some, that are unaccustomed to this
procedure, this can be an unpleasant sight. The informative English food
writer George Lassalle, in his book Middle Eastern Cuisine, East of
Orphanides, describes kibbeh-making in the rural villages of Lebanon as
"frightening." He found the incessant pounding and kneading of
the meat and bulgur both dreary and alarming. With the advent of the
electric grinder and food processor this ancient method of kibbeh-making
has all but stopped, except in the most rural villages. Often in
American cities with large Lebanese and Syrian populations you'll find
butchers that specialize in "kibbeh meat": lamb that is ground
two or three times to form an emulsification.
Kibbeh can take on many forms, the
most famous being kibbeh nayee (raw kibbeh) which is somewhat like steak
tartar. Two other common forms of the food are kibbeh bil-saneeya (baked
kibbeh) and kibbeh rass (fried kibbeh), both of which usually contain a
filling of cooked meat and pinenuts. Baked kibbeh is layered in a pan
with its stuffing and drizzled with olive oil, while fried kibbeh is
shaped into miniature hollowed out footballs and then stuffed before
being fried. Both of these cooked kibbeh are often served with
refreshing yogurt sauce. Despite advancements in modern technologies,
kibbeh-making is still an arduous task and usually reserved for
holidays, festivals or Sunday dinner.
Literally not a meal is eaten in
Lebanon that does not include bread. It is seasoned with zahtar
(thyme-sumac seasoning) and olive oil for breakfast, and utilized both
as a foodstuff and eating utensil for virtually every meal or snack.
Bread is regarded so highly in the Middle East that in some Arabic
dialects it is often referred to as "esh," meaning life. In an
area of the world that is steeped in biblical history it is easy to
remember that in the Christian church bread symbolizes the body of
Christ.
While one may not think of Lebanon
as a particularly well-known wine region, there are a few beautiful
Lebanese-made wines available in the United States. From the Bekaa
Valley, for example, you'll find Ksara and Château Kefraya. Ksara is an
excellent, full-bodied red and its winery, founded by Jesuit priests, is
the largest in the Middle East. Château Kefraya produces a light and
pleasant rosé. And from the Mount Lebanon region is Château Musar
(this author's personal favorite), which is an outstanding, full-bodied
red. Château Musar is produced by a Frenchman and his son who migrated
to Lebanon decades ago; their wine has the rich-fullness of classic
Bordeaux.
The entire Mediterranean rim is
known for their anise-flavored liqueurs. In the South of France there is
Pastis, in Italy you'll find Sambuca, in Greece Ouzo, and in Lebanon
there is the ubiquitous Arak. Arak is the national drink of Lebanon.
Interestingly, these anise-flavored liqueurs came into existence around
the turn of the century as a substitute-out of desperation actually-when
the infamous beverage Absinthe became illegal. Absinthe was a bitter,
anise-flavored liqueur that was popular with writers, painters and other
freethinking types during the mid-to-late 1800's. It was originally
produced about a century prior to treat malaria. However, the essential
flavoring came from the bitter root of the wormwood plant and was
reputed to have narcotic properties with disastrous side
effects-prolonged consumption of the beverage caused lesions on the
brain. When absinthe became illegal, manufacturers substituted anise for
the wormwood, to supply the demand, and a number of close imitations
were produced including Pernod, Sambuca and various brands of Arak and
Ouzo.
In Lebanon, very rarely are drinks
served without being accompanied by food. One of the more healthy and
entertaining aspects of Lebanese cuisine is the manner or custom in
which their food is often served, it's referred to as mezze. Similar to
the tapas of Spain and antipasto of Italy, mezze is an array of small
dishes placed before the guests creating an awe-inspiring array of
colors, flavors, textures and aromas. This style of serving food is less
a part of family life than it is of entertaining and cafés. Mezze may
be as simple as pickled vegetables, hummus and bread, or it may become
an entire meal consisting of grilled marinated seafood, skewered meats,
a variety of cooked and raw salads and an arrangement of desserts.
Although simple fresh fruits are
often served towards the end of a Lebanese meal, there is also dessert
and coffee. Baklava, which is usually associated with Greek cuisine, is
also a popular Lebanese dessert. The main difference between the
Lebanese variety and its Greek cousin, is Lebanese baklava often
contains pistachio nuts and is drizzled with a rose-water syrup, the
Greek variety usually contains walnuts and honey.
Coffee is a big deal in Lebanon.
It is served throughout the day, at home and in the public cafés.
Lebanese coffee is strong, thick and often flavored with cardamom. It is
also usually heavily sweetened. When guests arrive at one's home, they
are invariably persuaded to stay for a coffee, no matter how short their
visit.
The food of the entire
Mediterranean region is a celebration of life; it is fresh, flavorful,
diverse and invigorating. While speaking with a Lebanese chef who had
once operated a restaurant in the South of France, I questioned him on
the food of the sun-drenched Mediterranean. He said that the genius of
it was in its simplicity, and that the food was a product of both the
earth and the sea. He also told me of the natural bond that all of the
Mediterranean cuisines share, from the tip of Spain to his homeland in
the Levant, "the same waters equally splash all of the countries
around the Mediterranean". With that said, I walked away a content
and happy diner.
Lebanon is part of the Holy Lands.
Some sites date back to Biblical times such as Quana, the town of
miracles and tragedy, where Jesus turned water to wine. The Cedars are
another attraction you do not want to miss. In addition to that Lebanon
is has numerous historical and archaeological sites pertaining to
Phoenician, Roman, Byzantine, Crusader, Ottoman and other eras, that can
carry you back in time in amazement and wonder.
So step into this land of fun and
excitement, mystery and glory. Enjoy a vacation that you will never
forget. Once you’ve been cast by Lebanon’s magical spell you are
sure to repeat this wonderful journey and once again hear the warm
Lebanese welcome "Ahlan"
.